Need To Know - Rope Safety

Background information – Climbing with belay

Climbing walls with footholds higher than 2m are called top-rope walls or walls for leading. The climber is secured with a rope by means of different belaying devices.
Belaying anchors are of high importance, they must withstand high loads and have highest priority for the safety of the climber. All anchors must be designed for loads of 10kN, die under construction must be dimensioned accordingly. Condition is the norm for artificial climbing walls DIN EN 12572.

There are two different kinds of belaying:

Top-Rope-Climbing
The climber is belayed with a rope, which is threaded through an anchor on the highest point of the wall. His partner (the belayer) holds the rope while standing on the floor. Usually the rope remains in the wall after the descend of the climber.


Leading
In case of a fall the climber is belayed with a rope, which is fixed to protections placed on the wall: all points of protection must be designed to withstand higher loads. This must be guaranteed through an underconstruction which has to be calculated statically!
While leading, the climber clips the rope into protections by means of sling and karabiner. In case of a fall the belayer blocks the rope. After falling a more or less long distance (depending on how far he’s climb above the last protection), the climber is held by the rope.

Climbing walls can be equipped for one or the other kind of belaying. A wall for leading has to have points of protection which have to meet the standard of the norm. Decisive for the choice of belay are the target group and the wishes of the user. 
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The following general conditions have to be watched with climbing walls in school and club sport (in Germany):

  • Without rope belay it is only allowed to climb up to height of 2m of the footholds. Requirements for the area in front of the wall have to be fullfilled (see bouldering walls).
  • Walls for top-rope climbing or leading have to be assembled by competent person and have to meet the norm for artificial climbing walls
    DIN EN 12572.
  • The top-rope or leading wall has to be secured against unauthorized climbing. Up to a height of 2.50m no hold must be reachable. This can be done with lockable gates, by screwing off of holds, by placing mats in front which are secured with lockable belts or with electrical liftable walls.
  • Regulations for sport in gyms have to be fulfilled if the climbing wall is installed inside a gym (e.g DIN 18032, part 1).
  • Only climbing-equipment carrying a CE-sign may be used for belaying.
  • Climbing-equipment must undergo a visual inspection by teacher and pupils before every use.


Climbing walls in commercial facilities are usually designed fitting to the target groups. Therefore there can be different areas with different methods of belaying. Parts of the wall with low heights (6-8m) and top-rope belaying with additional safety-devices (TopStop Rope brake) are suited for children. Top-rope walls as well as leading walls are well-suited for beginners and leisure-climbers. Ambitious sport climbers appreciate leading walls, but areas with only top-rope climbing are also suitable for this target group.


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